Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.